How To Mix Developer And Bleach
Experimenting with hair colours can be fascinating and help express your creative side. However, you will need bleach to achieve cool colours or lighter shades.
Bleach will get you there, whether you want bright colours or a platinum blonde finish.
Bleach is highly intimidating to work with, and it can severely damage your hair if you misuse it. Bleach won’t work unless it’s activated with a developer.
Likewise, a developer won’t work unless it is mixed with colour or powder bleach.
However, bleaching your hair can be a stressful process.
If you plan to do this at home, you’ll want to research hair bleaching thoroughly and even perform patch tests to ensure your skin and scalp won’t be irritated.
You will need enough developer and bleach, too.
So, how do you mix developer and bleach?
A golden ratio must be used when combining these two products. You can severely damage your hair if you use too much of a single product. You’ll be at risk for chemical burns, frizzy hair, and more.
Bleach is not to be messed with, and the developer is also crucial to understand.
A developer is a creamy product that helps bleach lift pigment from your strands.
So, how can you ensure you mix the ideal amount of bleach and developer?
What Is Bleach?
Bleach powder is a common product you’ll find in salons or beauty supply stores.
Bleach can lighten many levels to achieve a bright, light colour. As a result, it’s often used to achieve platinum hair, fashion colours, highlights, and more.
This type of bleach is different from cleaning bleaches. For example, bleach powders for the hair are designed to remove pigment from the cuticle and change your base hair colour.
Bleach won’t work on hair that’s dried out or not mixed with a developer.
What Is A Developer?
Developers are a creamy liquid that helps activate bleach or hair colour because it contains Hydrogen Peroxide. Without this component, you can’t get bleach or dye to lift your cuticle.
There are different developer strengths, referred to as volume.
The power of your developer can increase the chances of lifting to a higher level, or it can cause damage to the hair if the volume is too high.
The number on your developer bottle states how many levels this product will lift your strands.
10 Vol
The 10-volume developer will only lift your hair one level.
This is the mildest developer, and it’s helpful when you want to make a minor change to your hair colour.
Don’t expect drastic hair colour results when using a 10 vol developer.
20 Vol
A 20-volume developer is usually a go-to choice to activate most hair colours or bleach jobs.
This one is stronger than the 10 vol, and this developer will lift your hair two levels or shades. Most hair-lightening kits will include a 20 vol developer for at-home bleaching.
30 Vol
A 30-volume developer can be tricky to work with because it’s powerful. This volume will lift your hair three levels, and it’s often used in professional settings.
A 30 vol developer can also activate hair dye or bleach powder to achieve lighter hair colour.
40 Vol
The 40-volume developer is the most potent and most dangerous developer because it can lift the hair four levels.
There is almost no reason to use a 40 vol developer at home, as the line between lifting and damaging the strands is very fine.
Especially when paired with bleach, 40-volume developers can wreak havoc on the hair and scalp if misused. Leave this developer to the pros!
Why Do You Need To Use Bleach And Developer Together?
Bleach and hair colour need to be activated with hydrogen peroxide to lighten your hair colour.
Developers are formulated with this ingredient and have a creamy texture that can add moisture to your bleach. If the bleach dries out, it will stop lifting.
How To Mix Bleach And Developer
How do you mix bleach and developer? Once you have your chosen developer, you want to achieve consistent results when combining it with bleach.
Too much developer or too much bleach will hinder your results and can even be harmful.
When mixing these two products, there is a golden ratio or a general rule of thumb.
This will ensure each product works to its full potential and that you receive your desired colour safely.
You will want to use an easy, consistent formula if you need to mix again.
Bleach To Developer Ratio
The general rule is to mix two parts developer to one part bleach. This is the standard ratio.
Although other ratios exist, a 2:1 ratio is suitable for most hair types or for beginners working with bleach.
So if you have one ounce of bleach, mix two ounces of developer.
However, does the volume of developers change your bleach-to-developer ratio?
No—it won’t matter whether you’re working with 10 vol or 30 vol; you will still want to follow the 2:1 ratio for the best results. Measuring tools will also help get the correct ratios.
Tips To Help Mix Bleach And Developer
How can you ensure you mix bleach and developer properly? Follow these tips below to help make the bleaching process a breeze!
This will be especially helpful for beginners learning how to bleach hair.
1. Purchase From The Same Brand
Purchasing your bleach and developer from the same brand will ensure you won’t have any adverse reactions.
For example, sometimes, a bleach from one brand and a developer from another will give you disappointing results or damage your strands.
Buying both from the same brand will make bleaching less risky because you know the brand has formulated its bleach and developers to work seamlessly together.
2. Use A Plastic Bowl
A plastic bowl or brush is the best tool for mixing bleach and developer.
For example, a metal bowl may react with your bleach/developer. However, a plastic bowl won’t alter your mixture, and it will be safe and ready for application.
Depending on what bleach job you’re performing, you’ll need gloves, foils, parting combs, clips, capes, and more.
3. Look For A Creamy Texture
You’ll want to add your powder bleach to the bowl first. Then, measure out your developer. You can easily mix these two ingredients with your colour brush.
Next, slowly add the developer in small amounts, mixing it evenly with the bleach after each addition. Continue until the mixture is fully developed.
This will ensure you have a smooth mixture that’s ready to use!
4. Get Rid Of Clumps
A whisk may help break up large clumps of powder.
You don’t want the bleach powder to lump together because the developer won’t have time to activate it, and you could end up with patchy hair colour.
As mentioned above, slowly adding the developer to the bleach and mixing after each pour will ensure the developer is thoroughly combined with the bleach.
5. Use Measuring Tools When Needed
Every bleach powder and developer will have directions from the manufacturer on mixing the two.
However, this can be intimidating for newbies, so always reach for a scale or measuring cup to ensure you are mixing the correct ratio.
How To Pick The Right Volume Of Developer
Your current base colour and the desired result will help you decide what volume developer is right for you.
The safest bet is to use a 20 vol developer because it’s less concentrated than 30 vol.
Most bleach powders are formulated to lift about seven levels on average.
So, you don’t want to mix this with a 30- or 40-volume developer because it can be too strong and burn or damage your hair.
If possible, always see a professional, licensed stylist when using a high-volume developer with bleach on your hair.
1. Analysing Your Hair
Before bleaching your hair, take a look at its current state. Is it damaged from previous colour or bleach treatments? Does your hair lift well, or will you need a toner?
What is your current hair colour? These questions will help prepare you for bleaching.
When you learn about the current state of your hair, you’ll know if it can handle a 30 vol developer or if you should stick to something less intense like 20 vol.
2. Think Of Your Desired Result
Depending on your desired outcome, you may or may not have to bleach your hair more than once.
However, remember you shouldn’t bleach your hair often, and avoid bleaching it twice in the same week.
If this is the case, make sure you know the length of your hair journey so you can buy the right developer.
3. Hair Prep For Bleach
Another way to get the most out of your bleach and developer mixture is to ensure your hair is prepped for bleach. These tips will help your bleach to lift evenly and seamlessly throughout your hair.
4. Don’t Wash Your Hair
Don’t wash your hair for a few days before bleaching. Your natural oils will help keep your scalp and roots protected when you actually apply the bleach.
You don’t need to worry about the oil, as it will not affect the bleach’s results.
5. Avoid Heat
If there is one thing you need to know about bleached hair, it doesn’t mix well with heat.
Heat can severely damage your hair, especially without a heat protectant or if it’s used frequently on bleached hair.
Like washing your hair, avoid heat styling your strands a few days prior so the bleach can work its magic. You can even apply a deep conditioning mask a few days out.
6. Perform A Test Strand/Patch Test
This tip is by far the most important, especially if you’re a newbie or hesitant about bleaching hair. Always perform a patch test and a test strand.
A patch test will ensure that you aren’t allergic to the bleach or developer, so you know there won’t be adverse effects.
Apply the product to the forearm or behind the ear and wait 24 hours to see if anything occurs.
A test strand will help you see how your hair will turn out without ruining your whole head.
Mix your bleach and developer, then take a small strand of hair and place it in the mixture to test it.
This is great to see if you’ll love the results or if you need to alter the formula or application method.
Bleach & Developer Application Tips
How can you get the most out of your bleach and developer mixture when it’s time to start applying?
1. Always Follow Manufacturer’s Directions
When in doubt, always follow your brand’s or manufacturer’s directions.
This will be especially helpful if you’ve purchased from the same brand. You can follow the rules to ensure you get a flawless result and stay safe while bleaching.
These directions will also tell you, step by step, how to mix your products and which ratios are best for your hair.
2. Have Extra Product On Hand
Always keep extra bleach and developer on hand if you accidentally run out.
The last thing anyone wants is to have half their head covered in bleach and not have enough to complete the process. Also, you never know when you might need to mix more!
3. Create Consistent Partings
Creating clean and even partings will provide a beautiful base to work on. Even parts will ensure the bleach coats all your strands without leaving patches.
You can easily part the hair with a rat-tail comb to achieve crisp, straight sections.
4. Consult A Stylist
Lastly, consult with a stylist. Most of us may feel intimidated, and leaving our hair in the hands of a trusted, licensed professional can yield the best results.
A pro will analyse your hair’s state and create a custom formula.
Final Thoughts
Bleach and developer are essential products if you plan on lightening your hair.
Unfortunately, one won’t work without the other.
The developer contains Hydrogen Peroxide, which helps activate the bleach, lifting the cuticle and removing pigment.
The general mixing ratio for bleach and developer is 2:1. For example, add 2 parts developer to 1 part bleach. This standard ratio is safe for most hair types and bleach jobs.
Your developer will tell you how many levels it will lift. For example, 10 vol will lift one level, 20 vol 2 levels, etc.
However, regardless of the volume of developer you use, you will still stick to the 2:1 ratio when mixing it with bleach.
You’ll want to pour the developer into the bleach a little at a time and stir thoroughly after each pour. This method will prevent clumps and patchy hair.
Also, mix in a plastic bowl, and buy your products from the same brand to avoid mishaps.
If you’re nervous about the bleaching process, always perform a patch test and a test strand.
Always follow your manufacturer’s directions or seek advice from a trusted and licensed hairstylist.
