Does Developer Damage Hair?
Developer is an essential tool used in hair colouring, but it’s often an overlooked product.
Applying colour or bleach to your hair alone won’t provide flawless results, as you need to mix it with a developer to activate the colour mixture.
In addition, the developer isn’t as exciting to use as colour or bleach, which is why many may neglect its significance.
However, you can’t eliminate your current hair colour or achieve your desired colour without a developer, and your bleach will stay dry.
Developer is a cream hydrogen peroxide product that is mixed with hair dye and bleach.
It’s available in various volumes and strengths to help reach your desired outcome.
It’s required to lift your cuticle to alter the pigment of your strands.
However, does the developer damage your hair?
Like most chemical services, a developer can harm the hair if applied too often or misused. A developer is less likely to harm your strands if you use it correctly or follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Without a developer, it can be impossible to achieve your desired colour unless you choose a temporary or semi-permanent dye that only deposits pigment.
It’s crucial to understand the components of hair developer before your next colour service.
What Is a Developer?
What is a hair developer? Hair developers are often a cream product that’s used with hair dye or bleach (we love this one from Wella).
Mixing these components to activate your hair colour, bleaching is necessary.
Without this product, you may not achieve your desired results.
The developer contains hydrogen peroxide that helps activate your colour and lift your cuticle.
If you don’t lift the hair’s cuticle, it will be impossible to saturate your strands with your new desired hue.
You can buy a developer separately, or it may be included in a box dye kit.
Why Do You Need a Developer?
The developer is required to lift the hair’s cuticle, eliminate the current hair colour, and saturate the strands with a new shade.
This product must be used when applying specific colour formulas, such as permanent, demi-permanent, or bleach.
The strength of your developer can also have a heavy impact on your colour service.
For example, without this component, bleach will remain dry and cannot lighten your hair.
Likewise, permanent hair colour will have difficulty penetrating the hair shaft.
What Does Each Level Of Developer Mean?
Developers are sold in volumes, which determine their strength and concentration.
Additionally, the potency of your developer will be determined by the amount of hydrogen peroxide used to formulate this product.
Hydrogen peroxide is what helps your hair lift and get lighter during the processing time.
Some high-volume developers may even help your hair reach a higher level of colour.
The most common developer volumes are 10, 20, 30, and 40 vol.
However, the strength of a developer can also be indicated by a percentage, often ranging from 3% to 12%.
10 Vol
The lowest and mildest developer is 10 volume.
This developer will lift your hair one level during your colour service. It also has the lowest strength of 3%.
A 10 vol developer is ideal for maintaining natural colours and mixing with toners and glazes.
It’s unlikely that a 10 vol developer will lighten your hair.
In addition, there is a lower chance of 10 vol developer damaging your hair because it’s mild.
It’s also great for grey coverage and helps deposit colour into the strands.
20 Vol
The next concentration of developers is 20 vol.
This volume developer is the most commonly used because it helps lift the hair more than one level without compromising the integrity of your strands.
You can mix this developer with colour and bleach.
It’s compatible with all hair types and textures, and can even help conceal greys.
A 20-vol developer will also help deposit new colour into the cuticle.
Additionally, it can lighten the hair by two or more levels, depending on the hair’s characteristics, and has a strength of 6%.
30 Vol
A 30 vol developer This is where things can get risky because it’s potent.
However, when it’s used correctly, it can quickly lighten your hair, especially when mixed with bleach.
If misused, it can potentially harm the hair.
This developer has a strength of 9% and is used when the hair is in good standing.
It can also lighten the hair 3+ levels if you want to achieve a light blonde hue.
Always proceed with caution when working with a 30 vol developer.
40 Vol
Finally, the most potent and high-powered developer is 40 volume.
It will be rare for a stylist to use a 40 vol developer, especially if the hair is already compromised.
It can lighten the hair 4+ levels while also depositing your new hair colour.
It’s risky to use 40 vol because it can cause severe damage to the hair and scalp if misused.
It can lighten the hair quickly, but it may not permanently save the integrity of your hair.
A 40 vol developer has a strength of 12%.
What’s The Ideal Volume Of Developer?
Most hairstylists will stick to a 20 or 30 volume developer.
Both of these developers will offer lift and help deposit colour while having less risk of damaging the hair.
This will ensure you healthily get your desired result, even if it’s more time-consuming.
A 40 vol developer can quickly damage your strands, especially if you have previously chemically treated or compromised hair.
So, 20 and 30-volume developers are a sweet middle ground, offering lift and deposit colour without harming your hair.
Do You Always Need To Use A Developer?
In most hair colouring services, it’s required to use a developer.
Unfortunately, you can’t lift the cuticle, eliminate your current colour, and deposit a new hue without a developer.
This is the case for permanent dye, demi-permanent dyes, and bleach.
You can also use a low-volume developer if you’re performing a toning treatment or a glaze.
However, some colour formulas, such as semi-permanent or temporary, don’t require a developer because they only deposit colour without lifting the cuticle.
This will work only if you plan to go darker, but going lighter will require a developer.
Can Hair Developers Damage Your Strands?
Developers are unlikely to damage your hair when they are used correctly.
That includes following your manufacturer’s directions, mixing the correct ratios of product, and avoiding frequent application of developer to your strands.
Additionally, a lower-volume developer is less likely to damage your hair than a high-volume one.
Applying developer to your strands by itself is unlikely to cause harm, but it is not recommended in case it lifts the base colour of your strands.
Is Hair Developer Always Damaging?
No, developers won’t always damage your hair.
However, there is a right and wrong way to use a developer, and the volume you apply will heavily impact your hair’s standing.
It would also be helpful to consider your hair’s characteristics and integrity.
A good rule is to avoid applying 30 or 40 volume developers.
These are high in hydrogen peroxide and can quickly burn the strands if misused.
They are high risk when paired with bleach, which can also cause chemical burns or damage to strands.
Can You Dilute Developer?
What can you do if you only have access to high-volume developers?
There is a possibility that you can dilute the concentration of developers to make it more tolerable for your strands.
However, this can also be risky if you’re not a professional stylist.
You can add one part water to your developer to reduce its potency.
It’s crucial not to add too much water, as it can alter the developer’s formula and texture, which can also affect your hair.
So, it’s always ideal to purchase the volume of developer you need.
Can You Use Hair Developer On Already Damaged Hair?
If you plan to colour your hair and it’s taken some damage, it may be wise to stick to a 10 or 20 volume developer.
Lower volumes will have less chance of harming your strands, especially if they’re already fragile.
However, you may want to take a few months off from hair colouring and work on increasing the integrity of your strands.
Additionally, it would be wise to avoid 30- and 40-volume developers, as they are very potent and can lift quickly.
Is Developer Shelf-Stable?
Another factor that people often overlook is the shelf life of the developer.
Using an expired developer on your hair won’t provide a successful colour service and can potentially harm your hair.
Most developers should be used within a year of opening.
However, developer formulas can vary by brand or manufacturer, so always follow the instructions on your label for the best results.
You can toss the developer if it changes colour, texture, or smell.
How Long Can You Let a Developer Sit On The Hair?
Like colour and bleach, developers also have a processing time.
Processing time refers to the amount of time a product can sit on the hair before it’s time to rinse.
Following the correct processing time will ensure your hair stays healthy, safe, and strong.
The average processing time for developers is 30 minutes.
However, developers can vary by brand and manufacturer, so always follow the directions on your developer’s label to ensure optimal results.
How Can You Prevent Damage From Hair Developer?
A developer doesn’t always have to be damaging.
Also, it’s rare for developers to damage the hair when they’re used correctly.
However, you can implement a few hair tips to ensure your hair remains safe while using developer.
These tips include using a low-volume developer, avoiding frequent hair colouring, and diluting the developer if needed.
Additionally, following your developer’s directions will minimise the risk associated with using this cream activator.
Stick To A Low Volume
Low-volume developers will pose less risk during a colour or bleach application.
For example, a 10 or 20-vol developer will offer minimal lift but help deposit your desired shade.
They are less potent and will most likely preserve your hair.
A 10 or 20 volume developer is also safer, especially if your hair is already chemically treated or compromised.
Dilute The Concentration
For those who only have access to high-volume developers, try diluting their potency.
You can potentially dilute high-volume developers with one part water.
It’s crucial not to alter the developer too much so that it changes its formula or texture.
However, it’s always best to purchase the developer you need rather than alter the chemical makeup of another volume.
Always proceed with caution when diluting developers.
Avoid Colouring Your Hair Frequently
The simplest thing you can do to avoid developer damage is to take a break from hair colouring.
Frequent colouring of your strands can lead to over-processed or compromised hair.
Once the hair is weakened, it can be not easy to revive.
Avoiding colouring your hair often will help maintain its integrity, so it’s strong enough to handle another colour service down the road.
How To Use Developer
You may be wondering, How do I use a developer?
We mentioned earlier that developers can vary in their formulas, and it’s always best to follow your brand’s directions for the best results.
However, there are some general guidelines.
Working with the correct ratios of bleach, colour, and developer is essential.
This ensures you get the right consistency without harming your strands.
With Bleach
Developer and bleach make a powerful combination, mainly when used in high volume.
So, it’s crucial to master your ratios to achieve your desired results. A general ratio to follow is 2:1.
This ratio means that you will mix two parts developer to one part bleach.
This will give the mixture a liquid consistency and prevent the bleach from drying out.
Any more or any less can create a patchy colour outcome.
With Color
Mixing colour and developer can be tricky because it all depends on what type of colour you’re applying.
For example, permanent, demi-permanent, and semi-permanent colour may require different ratios.
Some common colour ratios you may see are 1:1, 1:1.5, or 1:2. Always check the labels of your products to ensure you mix the correct ratio of colour and developer.
For a visual tutorial, take a look at this video from Brittnee Alexus on YouTube.
Related Questions
Can you use household hydrogen peroxide as a substitute for developer?
While both products have hydrogen peroxide, it may not be wise to add this to your hair colour.
What sets these two products apart, and which will be the most effective for your hair?
Hair developer vs household hydrogen peroxide – what’s the difference?
Unfortunately, you won’t be able to use household hydrogen peroxide by itself as a replacement for developers.
While both products have hydrogen peroxide, one is formulated for the hair and activates colour, and the other isn’t.
Household hydrogen peroxide will have little to no effect on your hair.
It could lighten your strands, but it won’t be as safe or effective as the developer.
It also has a thinner consistency that can alter the formula of your colour mixture.
So, it’s best to stick with hair developers.
Takeaway
Hair developer doesn’t have to be damaging to your hair.
However, it’s a crucial element needed in most hair colouring services.
Also, when a developer is used correctly, there is a minimal chance that it will severely damage your strands.
Developers can be damaging if used in high volumes or frequently on over-processed hair.
Therefore, it’s best to stick with a low volume developer, such as 20, for most colour services because it offers minimal lift and still deposits colour.
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